Someplace new
I remember when I was 20 and I looked out of the airplane window (on my way to Bosnia for the Kosovo Conflict) and saw Germany for the first time and the feeling of seeing a new place (new continent) for the first time and how it made me feel. I remember trying to wrap my head around the thought of how many different places there are in the world and how little I knew about different cultures places or people. Reading something in a book or having a teacher or friend describe it just isn't the same as seeing it and experiencing it first hand. Everything we know up until we have a new experience is our reality. Needless to say that feeling of exploring someplace new and experiencing a new culture doesn't change for me. Twenty years later I view travel and experience the same way some view a new car or new shoes or drugs for that matter.
One of my closest friends, Travis was moving to Brussels over the summer and wanted to try and link up one last time before heading out. His flight benefits allow him to go wherever short notice and he told me to pick somewhere I wanted to go and he would catch up with me. Travis and I have known each other for about seven years now and have found we are cut from the same cloth in most aspects of life. Regardless, it was going to be good to see him before his move.
I thought about checking out one of the neighboring islands with more than a week off work but I had been itching to go to SE Asia. I booked a flight to Singapore from Honolulu because we could launch from there to anywhere on the cheap with all the budget air carriers in that part of the world. I gave myself a day and half lay over in Singapore which should have been enough time for him to catch up with me. However, the timing was just to tight for him to make the trip. We knew this was a possibility which is why he told me to pick a place I wanted to go just in case he couldn't make it.
Where should I go?
I kept bouncing back between Indonesia and Thailand and after changing back and forth even up to a week or so before I didn't know which one to choose. I was leaning towards Ko Samui, Thailand or the Gili Islands in Indonesia. I went back and forth for different reasons. It was Ramadan and I read mixed reviews on going to a predominately Muslim country during this time so I was leaning towards Thailand. Instead of Ko Samui I was now leaning more towards Krabi because of the larger selection of air carriers and prices heading that way. Ko Samui is much more expensive to fly into from Singapore because the airport is privately owned and the monopoly with limited carriers has on the airport in Samui as one of the most expensive in the region to get too.
However after doing more research I realized the weather in Thailand was going to be very sticky and hot. So I chose an alternative Bali, Indonesia. I would have rather chose some place a little less traveled but since Bali is predominately Hindu (originally 85-90% according to locals) instead of Muslim it was the best choice. It's one that I don't regret at all either. I have not heard to many bad things about Bali and I can attest to all the good things about it. Even though this was my first trip to Asia and I don't have thing else to compare it to I have to say that Bali now ranks in my top three of all time. If you get the chance I would tell you to go tomorrow or today for that matter. I guess everyone has a different idea of what makes a trip or location great but for me finding a nice place with warm weather, great food and amazing people are all at the top of my list did I mention it's still fairly inexpensive?
However after doing more research I realized the weather in Thailand was going to be very sticky and hot. So I chose an alternative Bali, Indonesia. I would have rather chose some place a little less traveled but since Bali is predominately Hindu (originally 85-90% according to locals) instead of Muslim it was the best choice. It's one that I don't regret at all either. I have not heard to many bad things about Bali and I can attest to all the good things about it. Even though this was my first trip to Asia and I don't have thing else to compare it to I have to say that Bali now ranks in my top three of all time. If you get the chance I would tell you to go tomorrow or today for that matter. I guess everyone has a different idea of what makes a trip or location great but for me finding a nice place with warm weather, great food and amazing people are all at the top of my list did I mention it's still fairly inexpensive?
Flights were quick and easy for me! Honolulu to Tokyo was just over eight hours and Tokyo to Singapore was just over seven with a few hours in between to stretch my legs. I had a day and a half to see some sites and soak up some Singapore culture before my Friday afternoon flight to Bali.
With my limited amount of time I hit three spots and while I could have spent more time it was perfect for what I wanted. The iconic Marina Bay Sands Hotel http://www.marinabaysands.com reminds me of something out of Vegas. It's three 56 story towers with a large curved "boat" perched on top. The top hosts a restaurant, bar, observation deck, gym and pool. The hotel is pricey with numerous restaurants, shops, a casino and almost anything else you can think of all nestled into it. I paid the $15 for a ticket to the observation deck snapped a few pics and left. You can also grab a refreshing drink and soak it up at the rooftop bar if you so choose. Unfortunately pool access is reserved for hotel guests only. It was hot and extremely humid (which I have a feeling is typical for Singapore) so I didn't stay long and took the metro back towards the hotel and toured around Arab Street and Haji Lane. Check out this Youtube video I found after I returning home https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_-f51qqUlQ This is truly a must see for anyone that goes to Singapore and something I highly recommend! You could easily spend a half a day here checking out the shops, sipping tea, bartering on the price of a trinket you most likely don't need and soaking in the culture. It's only a few streets a couple blocks long anchored by the huge Sultan Mosque.
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| Singapore Skyline |
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| Poolside Marina Bay Sands |
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| View from MBS |
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| MBS view from the bottom |
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| Sultan Mosque |
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| Traditional Malay lunch on Arab Street |
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| Chinatown at night |
SIN (Singapore) to DPS (Denpasar)
It's about a two and half hour flight from Singapore to Denpasar and I arranged for a driver to pick me up at the airport which if you have not been to Bali is worth its weight in gold. The "taxi mafia" at the airport is ruthless bombarding everyone that walks out and if I heard the word "taxi" once during this trip I must have heard it a few thousand times. Seems like everyone is offering a ride even the unsuspecting guy who just passed you on his scooter and pulled over to offer it up again. Regardless, the traffic and the scooters are crazy! There is no rime or reason to it and why install traffic lights when everyone can just use a horn instead?! I never dared to drive during my trip although I did talk to many that said the best way to get the full experience is via scooter. I grew up with dirt bikes and road motorcycles as an adult and I still stayed away from it. Perhaps on another trip. It was common to see a family of four on a scooter. The majority of the time the mother and or father were wearing helmets while the kids didn't. I saw so many people texting and driving a scooter it became normal and I didn't even question it after a while..WTF?
It's about a two and half hour flight from Singapore to Denpasar and I arranged for a driver to pick me up at the airport which if you have not been to Bali is worth its weight in gold. The "taxi mafia" at the airport is ruthless bombarding everyone that walks out and if I heard the word "taxi" once during this trip I must have heard it a few thousand times. Seems like everyone is offering a ride even the unsuspecting guy who just passed you on his scooter and pulled over to offer it up again. Regardless, the traffic and the scooters are crazy! There is no rime or reason to it and why install traffic lights when everyone can just use a horn instead?! I never dared to drive during my trip although I did talk to many that said the best way to get the full experience is via scooter. I grew up with dirt bikes and road motorcycles as an adult and I still stayed away from it. Perhaps on another trip. It was common to see a family of four on a scooter. The majority of the time the mother and or father were wearing helmets while the kids didn't. I saw so many people texting and driving a scooter it became normal and I didn't even question it after a while..WTF?
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| Finally made it! |
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| Driver Pick-up at Bali Airport |
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| Hard to find my driver |
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| Look ma' no helmet |
There are a few things it took me a while to get used to here. Everyone genuinely seems to be happy and smiling! Not everyone that says hello is trying to sell you something and of all the places I have been I felt as though the people are some of the kindest and nicest I have met. Of course some are trying to sell or promote their business but not everything was a racket. People say hello and chances are once you respond there next question will be, where are you from? I had a great experience here and even though there are a lot of tourists (mostly Australian) I can't imagine anyone not liking it. Regardless if you want to shop, relax, retreat, see monkeys, yoga, meditate, explore volcano's Bali has just about everything and anything you could imagine. One of the things I noticed were numerous people flying kites! Even kids running in the street trying to navigate their kite through numerous power lines. I thought back to the last time I flew a kite and could not remember it...again it's the simple things in life that don't cost much!
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| Power lines, cable, everything! |
Seminyak, Indonesia
Two of the first things I noticed after leaving the airport were Starbucks and McDonald's (which offers delivery) but luckily they are not on every corner like some places I have been. I stayed in the town of Seminyak and loved it. I did venture over to the town of Kuta for a night but I would NOT recommend it. The feeling was much more laid back in Seminyak. For example...Kuta has the Hard Rock Hotel and such and just has a different vibe all together. Seminyak has more of a local feel to it with more high end shops and resorts. I lucked out here and would totally stay in Seminyak again but I would NOT recommend Kuta.
Anyway, I booked a room at the Bali Ginger Suites http://www.baligingersuites.com on Expedia for my first few nights in town and then ended up treating myself to a Villa with a pool in the same vicinity for my last few nights. Ginger Suites was average but the location was great the rooms were clean and the staff was excellent. My room was $30 total per night and I ended up moving to the two bedroom Villa for under $90 USD a night! You just can't beat these prices! I felt like I was in Mexico but nobody was speaking Spanish. I highly recommend staying at a villa as the hosts can and will arrange just about anything you want including private driver, tours, etc. There are a plethora to choose from. Check out Villa Bugis http://villabugis.com for booking. I could have stayed at a cheaper hotel or villa but for what I needed both worked out perfect for me. I ended up grabbing a BLUE BIRD taxi when I went somewhere local or somewhat close and opted for Uber for the longer trips. There are many taxi options there and if you are going to take one be sure it's Blue Bird and if they won't start the meter then get out and get another one. On one of my short journeys between beach clubs I paid 10,000 IDR = .75 cents for a two mile ride (helmet not included).
Becoming a millionaire
I was limited by ATM to 2.5 Million Indonesian Rupiah per withdraw which was equivalent to about $190 USD. This usually lasted me much longer that I thought and had I done no shopping or splurge it would have been a really cheap trip but why else go on vacation if not to enjoy. Below are sample prices I paid during my trip.
Pad Thai with chicken plus soda 150K = $11.50
2 eggs breakfast 100K = $7.50
1 hour foot massage 90K includes tip = $6.75
Pork belly salad 140K includes tip = $10.50
Ginger beer on beach 52K = $4
5 min taxi 12K = $1
Eggs bacon and tea 52K = $4
2 tank tops 100K = $7.50
Fresh squeezed juice 28K
Uber Ride 18km - 38 minute for 74K = $5.50
Uber Ride 18km - 38 minute for 74K = $5.50
Location is key
My villa was super close to The Shelter Cafe and if you can stay anywhere close to this place DO IT! I had to walk past this place to get to or from the villa and it was the true diamond in the rough on my trip. I heard about some of the other places I mention but this one I knew nothing about...I ate here ever morning for breakfast and some days for lunch or afternoon snack. I recommend a few places from this trip to must do and this place is at the top! Go figure my top choice is an eatery instead of a bar or club. Use this place as reference though as the location is smack dab in the middle of where you want to be if you go to Seminyak because while it's in the heart of it all it's on a quiet street. http://www.sheltercafebali.com/#home This is the one thing I wish I had with me in Hawaii...it's that damn good! Go to Bali for this place and you won't regret it....
Beach Clubs / Hipster Hang Outs
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| My shirt says it best... |
I did zero research on night clubs or nightlife. This is always a staple for me when I travel as most of you may know but I did not really seek it out this time. However as one of my friends told me I always seem to find these places and they usually seem to be better than good. One person total be about Potato Head but other than that I knew nothing. I found a few different beach clubs that were totally hip and totally different.
The first one La Plancha http://www.bali-indonesia.com/magazine/la-plancha.htm was close to my hotel just at the end of the main drag that leads to the beach. It was a little hut on the beach with a ton of spots set up with great wait staff and awesome music of all sorts. You could go for a swim watch the people trying to surf then had back and grab some food and drink. There are a few other places on each side of it that are similar but I found La Plancha https://www.thebalibible.com/laplancha/ to be the best one in that area. One of the things that they all had in common are beach bean bag chairs with peddlers selling everything you can imagine. In my opinion the beach wasn't that great but I am somewhat spoiled coming from Hawaii.
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| Bow and arrow or blow dart anyone? |
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| La Plancha |
Potato Head - https://www.ptthead.com/bali/ I ended up here a couple times when I wanted to get out and lounge. I spent an afternoon here swimming in the pool, sipping drinks, meeting people and just lounging. I ended up paying 500,000 IDR = $37 minimum for a lounger right next to the pool. I just had to spend that much in food and drinks for my own 4 person lounger? This was were I "splurged" during my trip and had my my expensive outing of about $50 USD for a whole afternoon of drinks and fun. This would have been 20 times that in Vegas and the people watching was just as good without all the fakes and posers. This place is just up the road from Ku De Ta and if you have to choose one over the other choose Potato Head! You can also look for more videos on YouTube
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| Potato Head Pool |
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| Potato Head Lounge |
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| Potato Head Sunset |
Ku De Ta https://www.kudeta.com/ was my least favorite of the three...just seemed a little stuffy to me. I was not allowed to enter the beach club after 4pm in a tank top but was allowed to shuck my shirt as soon as I paid for my drink and lounged by the pool. Really? What kind of a place does this? The good news is they had a lot of security and I felt safe ALL the time at this place.
Nightlife - Seminyak
I ended up at a couple different places at night one of them is a restaurant that turns into lounge/club later and after The Shelter it's my second favorite place in Bali! It's is called La Favela www.lafavela.com and even if you don't want to stay late go early just to see the amazing decor of the building. This was another place I accidentally found as it was only circled on the map someone else had used at the villa. I thought why not check it out...no google no nothing. This place is a work of art that happens to function as a restaurant, lounge, bar, etc. Totally one of the coolest places I have ever been. After 10pm there is a strong security presence outside with armed guards and a metal detector and pat down. Outside of the airport this was the only place I saw any sort of law enforcement on my trip. To get a better idea of the place check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-GCWUARtHpI. The only thing I did not like about this place is they still allow smoking indoors and there is only so much of this I can take since it's been banned almost everywhere now days.
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| La Favela Back Bar |
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| La Favela Rooftop |
The second place I went to was just across the street and it's called Red Carpet Champagne Bar. http://redcarpetchampagnebar.com good times and great people watching. There were mostly tourists but somewhat of a mixed crowd all together. Top notch service as the name would suggest and overall a good place that has an outdoor atmosphere with fun times to be had by all. If you check out La Favela and it gets to smokey then head across the street to this place and get some fresh air and a drink and admire the socialites.
There are ton of different places to check out in Seminyak for all walks of life. Chances are if you wonder around in the evening you will find something you like or I would be surprised. I didn't venture out of Seminyak in the evenings except my one night out in Kuta which I don't recommend. There is just a different vibe to Seminyak and for my first time in Bali I think I found a gem.
I found a place for some Mexican food that had a good atmosphere with decent food as well called Lacalaca Mexican Cantina. Overall most of the places were above average but the prices seemed to make them better than that. The staff in most places if very attentive and happy to help if you need anything and speaking English is never an issue.
Beaches
When I thought of Bali before I thought of amazing beaches and crystal clear water. Not sure of why i thought of it this way but it was just in my mind. The beach close to where I stayed near La Plancha was not what I visioned. One thing that stood out to me were the waves that stayed around even after the sunset which was uncommon but perhaps it was just the swell that was in. I know I am spoiled coming from Hawaii and I now have a greater appreciation for the beaches (Lanikai and Waimanalo) on the windward side of Oahu as they are some of the most amazing I have ever seen. Regardless, I just thought the water was going to be clearer and the beaches nicer. I did end up talking to the hostess at La Plancha and I asked her if she knew of any good beaches. She was from Venezuela and said the most beautiful beaches she knew of were in Venezuela. I asked her where and she said Los Roques - Venezuela were the nicest and best she had ever seen. Note to self....perhaps this is one to add to the list of places to visit.
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| Beach at Nusa Dua |
In a nutshell
As I mentioned above there are a ton of things to do in Bali and I could have stayed busy during my entire trip but I was not going to come back from another trip and be exhausted. I wanted to relax and do as little as possible while seeing some neat stuff along the way. That is exactly what I needed and ended up doing and I am so happy I did. Many people talk of all the things to see and places to go like Ubud the Monkey Forest and such but I figure I will save that for another trip because I will definitely be back. Even as I type this I already struggle with the thought of going back because I know there are many places to go and see but there is something about going back to a place you have a little insight to for a follow-up as well. I had great food, music, experienced a totally different culture and most importantly had some quality "John time".
This trip could not have come at a better time as I have suffered some recent losses and endured some heartache and feel as though just having sometime to unplug and think it though is needed in life. This was the first solo trip I have done in a very long time (I think Brussels in 2001 was my last solo trip) yet I am not sure I was really alone. I travel a lot for work and pleasure and this was the first time in my life that I can remember having an empty seat next to me on every single leg I flew on (with the exception of my flights in and out of Bali) of my trip. To have four long haul flights on large aircraft when I have an empty seat next to me is unheard of these days. On my return flight from Singapore to Tokyo I even walked to the back o the airplane to check and see if there were any other empty seats and there weren't. So was I really traveling alone? How did the seat next to me continuously remain "vacant" during my adventure....perhaps i was not alone at all?
"Terima Kasih" = "Thank You" Bali for the good times...I will be back!
I found the following website as I started typing up the blog....perhaps I should have done some research but in the end it all works out....
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| Scooters and more scooters |
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| Local shopkeepers buying "delivery snacks" |
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| Breakfast bus |
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| Ceremony along the beach |